Naught for All

The sun rose earlier than any human plucked from the depths of a Swedish winter could imagine. We were able to take a better look at the beautiful grounds, which were donated by an affluent Swiss farmer. We ate a humble breakfast to the calls of myriad birds and assembled for a briefing from Mr. Saidi Kiparu, manager of Mazumbai Forest Reserve (MFR). He presented details about the history, topography and geography of the reserve. The forest, which is managed by the University of Dar es Salaam, is bordered by government forest, community forest, tea (Camellia sinensis) and quinine (Chinchona sp.) plantations and farmland. According to Mr. Kiparu, the reserve is host to more than 250 plant species, 169 of which are endemic to the Usambara Mountains. The reserve is important because it harbours biodiversity and is the watershed for the surrounding arable lands, besides being ‘the most pristine of Tanzania’s forests’ (again, according to Mr. Kiparu).

Common tree species in MFR:

• Ocotea usambarensis
• Entandophragma excelsior
• Newtonia buchananii
• Parinari excelsum
• Syzygium guineense
• Eucalyptus spp.
• Allanblackia stuhlmanni
• Podocarpus spp.
• Erythrina abyssinica

After the informative presentation we had a walk around the reserve. We began in the tea plantation, where we observed a single N. buchananii stem being parasitized by Allophyllus abyssinica, Cadaba adenothricia, Dembollia barbonica and Ficas laprinum. Agriculture in the valley below prompted some conversation, but the forest interested us most. As we ascended away from the realm of intense human influence we began to see why Mazumbai is such a special place. Huge buttresses arc into the smooth, straight boles of E. excelsior and N. buchananii, tree ferns (Order Cyatheales) stretch toward the light and the stately Ocotea stands guard over it all. We saw a ‘Tanzanian train’ (Class Diplopoda) and a chameleon (Family Chamaeleonidae) on the way to the peak. Mr. Kiparu translated the sage-like knowledge of our machete-wielding guide as we walked. After a slow trudge up an unforgiving slope the sunny summit came into view. We made ourselves comfortable and put a dent in our formidable stockpile of tuna (Thunnus sp.) and sardines (Sardina sp., or, more likely, Clupea sp.). Again, foreshadowing.

The ecosystemic quality of MFR was especially apparent when we came to the border it shares with government forestland. The understorey on the government side is thick and tangled, recent disturbances are evident and no large trees are apparent, including the mature O. usambarensis that is relatively abundant in MFR. MFR is bounded by a row of Eucalyptus sp., as its shade intolerant seeds will have difficulty regenerating in local conditions.

The downhill jaunt was rather pleasant; we were free to amble along and gawk at the splendour around us. The exclamation points were our exciting encounters with a colony of black and white colobus monkey (Colobus angolensis) and a colourful group of local youth. Both groups ran away from us fairly quickly, but at least the kids seemed amused with us. Back at the research station, we prepared dinner and crashed headlong into our bunks for some well-deserved shuteye.

Why so much science? What is this?